Designer Veronika Brusa Talks Fashion Week and Her New Collection
In BERENIK’S A/W 2017 collection designer Veronika Brusa focuses on comfort and function without sacrificing the contemporary style that has been at the core of the brand since its founding. Following the presentation last week New York City Monthly chatted with Brusa to find out a little more about the vision for BERENIK and one trend she hopes to change in women’s fashion.
Presenting at New York Fashion Week is a major accomplishment in the industry. How do you feel about being here?
This was the fourth season for us showing at New York Fashion Week. After traveling so much around the world and living in different cities, for fun but mostly for my brand, I feel showing in NY is the right thing to do for BERENIK. This place has the right mix of past and future so I feel the time spirit when I walk through the streets and that’s somehow the biggest influence for my collections.
What inspired your studio move from Paris to New York a few years back?
New York, even though I had never been here before I moved here (really true), felt like the right place for me, or maybe the next place I needed to explore and see what happened. And my intuition was right, I think the aesthetic and philosophy of BERENIK is right here. And also for me personally, I was moving around so much in the world which made me feel like an Alien wherever I went, and here in NY I arrived at a place with many Aliens around me!
The A/W line your presenting is a collection of “comfortable, functional, and sporty silhouettes, but with a new sense of femininity.” What are some style elements you incorporated into the pieces to achieve this atheistic?
I work a lot with oversized styles, first of all because I like it in a way that it is comfortable and cool, but I also think there is a sexiness of not showing off everything – it’s more confident and that’s what makes it sexy. For this season I wanted to mix it up with some very tight bodysuits and leggings. I love the contrast of the oversized styles and a tight fit – like a wide cardigan and underneath you wear a body suit with leggings – it’s chic, cool, sexy and you could go to the gym without changing.
What’s a trend in women’s fashion today that you want to change or influence with your designs?
Dresses! Really, there are so so many bad dresses all around. I wish they would all disappear and women would stop dressing themselves looking like a birthday present. To be honest I always hated dresses – even when I was a little girl, I felt so embarrassed when I had to wear a dress for a certain occasion. There are so many better ways to dress for chic occasions and I hope to change that “tradition” of women wearing awful dresses.
When you start a collection, is the process from the beginning as important to you or is it about achieving the final result as efficiently as possible?
For me it was always about the process. When I started designing clothes I didn’t even know what kind of clothes I wanted to do, but I was obsessed with making things, materials, machines and finding out how to develop my ideas. It all changed a bit over time, after sewing hundreds of samples myself, I’m not as obsessed anymore and I’m happy to delegate that part! Now the “concept” phase is actually my favorite phase. It’s when I can let my brain just go wherever it wants to go, browse through fabrics and work on the prints. That’s also the phase when I usually work on my artwork to keep my brain in a creative zone. It’s the most playful phase and it’s when a lot of new things happen. Then the process of deciding and locking things down is the most exhausting part. It is super stressful with a lot of pressure as there is always a huge difference between an idea and the real thing and many factors to consider for the end result. The result is the result – on the way there I always hope that I will like it, which is not always the case, but now after 10 seasons of BERENIK I mostly do, which is great!